These
are the Chronicles of Famous Surf Writer Ben Marcus and his trip
into the Wilds of the Alaskan Frontier.
Latest Update: September 25, 2000
8:02
ON STANDBY AT THE JUNEAU FERRY TERMINAL
I
am first in line on standby for the 9:15 ferry to Haines. I'm hoping
I'll make it, but you never know. I am half-heartedly organizing
and rearranging the van, but not really getting into it, because
I don't know when I'll get the call to move.
I
should be trying a little harder to reorganize the van, because
a certain someone is missing. Can't find him anywhere. Can't remember
where I hid him last time, even. Oh well, he'll turn up.
Anyway,
I feel good after a few days in the home and hearth of the Otsea
family. They have a solid family unit there, which I suspect has
been welded together through the closeness of long summer days and
longer winter nights. Last night at around 9:30, Peter pointed out
into the pitch black and said, "Imagine that at 3:30 in the afternoon,
with driving rain." It was hard to imagine, but the thought of it
explained the alcoholism and suicide problems that afflict Norway
and Alaska and other places in the northern latitudes. People need
sunlight. They go whoogy without it.
Speaking
of whoogy, I slept a lot in the last few days and Peter and Margie
said they were worried about me, but I was just catching up on all
the bad sleep I'd been getting on the way up, in the van, in the
cold. Peter gave me an old sleeping bag and wished me well. I was
tempted to buy a down comforter from that store in Juneau, but I
think I'll wait and find someplace a little more industrial and
a little less touristy.
Went
to the Alaska Bar with Peter last night and watched the Olympics,
after yet another lovely dinner of salmon tacos. That capped a day
of picnicking and walking the tidal flats at Eagle Beach, which
is near Eagle River, which is a place where one can see a lot of
bald eagles. They were all over, white heads and white tails, flying
majestically and making deceptively innocent chirping noises as
they flew around, looking for prey. There's plenty for a scavenging
bird of prey to eat in Alaska, from salmon to other birds. Saw at
least a dozen different eagles, and lots of other birds. They were
all just getting along, but Peter has seen lots of instances of
bald eagles swooping on ducks and scoters, and eating their livers
as the birds struggled.
Eagle
Beach looked a lot like Alaska: Looking across the Gastineau Channel
there was a big, mysterious view into mountains of uncertain height,
shrouded in cloud and snow and occasional blasts of sunlight. There
were even a few glimpses of blue sky, which is a pretty epic turquoise
in this part of the world. That little patch of blue sky was the
only fragile thing in sight, though. Alaska is a sturdy place. There's
nothing fragile about this place, and it's mysterious enough.
Peter
said there was a chance of also seeing Orcas at Eagle Beach, but
none came by. Orcas are up there on my list of Natural Phenomena
I've Yet to See. On other trips and at other beaches I've ticked
off Water Spouts (San Onofre) and Northern Lights Norway) and Angry
Sharks (Sumbawa). On this trip I've seen a Black Bear and a Moose
and a Glacier, more Northern Lights, Fall Color Along the Cassiar
and a Dead Porcupine on the Side of the Road, but there's more to
come. I'm hoping to tick off Orcas, Grizzly Bear, maybe a Tidal
Bore or two and who knows what else.
Right
now the only natural phenomenon I want is Getting on the Ferry on
Standby. Maybe I'll see an Orca or two from the ferry. This is a
daylight trip back to Haines, so I'll be seeing all the scenery
I missed on the night voyage in. I'm going to sort out the van before
crossing back into Canada at Haines Junction, so I don't end up
seeing The Inside of a Jail Cell.
That's
about it for now. Go Giants.
|