These
are the Chronicles of Famous Surf Writer Ben Marcus and his trip
into the Wilds of the Alaskan Frontier.
Latest Update: October 22, 2000
11:33
YUKON TIME ROOM 108, SOME HOTEL, WATSON LAKE, YUKON, CANADA.
Simon
says go snow..
To
make a long, seven-hour, 200-mile, no-other-cars, glad-I-didn't-crash-or-get-a-flat-tire
story short, I survived the Campbell Highway. It was just that,
200 miles, not one other car, not one other human, seven hours of
driving on snowy roads, and then a blizzard, not worrying about
gas, but thinking about how much fun a flat tire would be, out in
the middle of nowhere.
Lots
and lots of this.
Not
one other car between Ross River and Watson Lake. The road had a
few inches of snow on it, but it was gravel, so it wasn't slidey.
Pretty
much like this for 200 miles
At
one point I stopped at Mink Creek and actually went fishing. Nice
hole, but the fish were probably all in Florida.
No
fish. I will return.
Later
I crossed the Big Campbell River, which was the clearest fresh-water
river I'd ever seen. Didn't see any fish, or any other wildlife
for that matter. Saw a big snow owl take off from a tree, and saw
a lot of big tracks. Don't know if they were moose or bear, but
they were big. There is a big population of Cariboo that live in
this area, so maybe it was Cariboo.
I
drove and drove and drove, through spectacular back-country, with
the sun glistening off mountains in the distance. I listened to
the Jam, then Weather Report, and the Weather Report was just right:
spooky and moody and beautiful.
A
flat tire or a breakdown would have been a real drag, but nothing
happened except for a few slips and slides.
Nor
cars, nor people, nor nothing. Nice.
I
did this all at around 30 or 40 MPH. At around 5:30 I drove into
a decent snowstorm that was almost a white out. That slowed me down
a little, but I pushed on. Every once in a while I would stop and
get out and bend an ear to see if I could hear anything. Nothing.
I
finally pulled into Watson Lake after dark. It was nice to see streetlights
and cars and people again. I had a calzone at the Gateway Restaurant,
and watched TV. Long day. Good thing I didn't slide off a cliff.
Now
I'm watching Northern Exposure, a show I've always liked. It's about
life in a small Alaska town. I like it better now, because it's
pretty spot on. This is the one about flinging things.
Making
tracks. Moose knuckles?
Outta
here now, it's 12:20. Maybe down the Cassiar, maybe the other way.
A
drunk in the bar last night said I should go the other way. Should
I listen to a drunk?
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